Friday, May 28, 2010

6.5 hour layover in SF. Bllaaaahhhhh. Sourcing tatami mats, japanese futon, comfortor and special pillow, shoji and fusuma.... for near and distant-future purchasing ...eating without chopsticks is weird. Wishing I was still in Kyoto. It was only 2+ weeks, but it's effect was complete. A Totoro came home with me...

Thursday, May 27, 2010

Leaving Japan

Tokyo is awesome.  Shibuya, Asakusa, Shinjuku....it was all amazing.  Some really fantastic architecture.  We were done with our schedule by 3 so Jackie and I stayed in the busy city while the rest of the group went back to the rooms at the Olympic Center.  We hung around Shibuya until dusk, ate dinner, then enjoyed all the bright lights and waves of people after dark.  Shibuya has one of the most famous intersections in the world, and we were a part of it for an evening.  I still wouldn`t want to live in Tokyo - but I could definately come back.  It really is something and I thoroughly enjoyed my last full day!

I fly out this evening....will arrive home Friday night.  Saturday I`ll wake, mosey, finish unpacking, laundry, errands and shopping, mow the lawn......and life will return back to normal.  Mostly.  There will be hints of Japan in my daily life and much to think about when I return.  And I am already planning a trip back - projecting fall of 2012!  Just enough time to let the recent experiences simmer and soak in, and also time for more research and study of Japan and Japanese.  Some places will be visited again, like Ryoan-ji, Kinkaku-ji, Koyasan, and some new places will be visited, like Eihei-ji, the seashore to watch the fisherman, a satoyama up north, and more gardens in Kyoto which I wasn`t able to view.

I have met some really great individuals here.  Before I came I thought the Japanese people were a very reserved and closed society.  And while it is quite traditional/conservative and rule-oriented (for the most part)...the Japanese are still very joyful, happy, and wonderful people who love to share their lives with those around them.  I am glad my preconcieved ideas were a bit off.

Gardens, temples, shrines, kimono fabric, artwork, food (not all food however, I do have texture aversion to some items...), architecture, mountains, new green, borrowed scenery, the people...it`s was all completely worth it!

Wednesday, May 26, 2010

Last Full Day

I am about the head out for my last full day in Japan!  Tokyo!  I am a little more rested now after a few nights of getting to bed at a decent hour, so I am feeling the big city excitement coming on...woo!

We will see some key places around the city today - and I will enjoy the crowds, crazy subway system, and all the bizzar Tokyo fashion.  I would love to have time for some shoe shopping here.  Japan is not afraid of color.

Yes - I am feeling the energy...it`s going to be a great day.

Gambatte!!!

Last Day in Kyoto

I have sat down several times to type out my last day in Kyoto...but I can't seem to get past the first sentence.  Eh......

It is rainy - REALLY rainy.  My shoes and socks and the bottoms of my jeans are VERY soaked while staying dry on top with my large umbrella - my compact umbrella stayed in Koyasan.  I contemplate heading back and waiting until this heavy fall lets up, but I still go... go to Kiyomizu.  There is a dark tunnel I walk through - I grasp a rope of large beads and let it lead me into the darkness... into the darkness... I pass through some black cloth, representing entering the womb.  I am barefoot.  I follow the darkness until I see a large stone sphere in the short distance lit by a soft light... almost as if the light has hands that are gently but purposefully placed upon the stone.  I let go of the guiding beads and approach the stone.  There's an etching that I see and feel as I pass my hand over the rough surface.  Only me and the stone exist in the universe.  I pray a desire as I rotate the heavy stone.  One turn.  For a moment I linger... pondering over my prayer.  The beads lead me through another black cloth and into the light.  I am born into the world again with a wish and a prayer to find me.

*****

Kodai-ji was wonderful.  I paid more attention to people's reactions to the gardens around the temple - and how the gardens influence and affect those who spend time with them.  It was beautiful to watch.  I want to develop garden spaces that create a moment that people seek for in life.

I prefer temples over shrines.  They seem to have something more to them that resonates with me.

*****

I learned that in zazen you shouldn't shut or eyes 100%.  While mediating you should have them barely open - just enough so you can see about three feet in front of you.  If you look at the Buddhas you will see that the ones whose eyes seem closed are really just barely closed.  It's the idea that you still stay connected and of use to humanity, even while separating yourself from it.  Be in the world, but not of the world.

I miss Kyoto.

Tokyo

Tokyo is not Kyoto.

We haven't seen much of the city yet - but what we did see was pretty cool, I guess.  But really, I wasn't that impressed.  I am usually thrilled, enthralled and energized by big cities.  But for some reason I had no moment of 'oh wow... this is amazing!'  Maybe tomorrow.

I would never want to live in Tokyo.  Meh.

A few of us found a little Indian restaurant for dinner.  A little Indian restaurant.  There was no seating on the first floor with wooden spiral staircases leading up to a small room with two windows and a handful of tables.  It was the BEST naan I have ever eaten, ever.  With Bossa Nova playing over the system it was quite the enjoyable meal...in Tokyo, eating Indian, listen to Brazilian....is this really my life?

Monday, May 24, 2010

Leaving Kyoto

We leave for Tokyo in two hours.  I am excited to see what the big city is like...

Kyoto and the surrounding areas are probably more traditional and conservative in public than Tokyo - the charmed, surreal and culturally rooted society that I have been describing the past two weeks will probably change.

I remain in awe by all that I have experienced here in Kyoto, Kameoka and Koyasan.  It`s been incredible and as I continued to move through various spaces - be it temples, gardens, shrines, or small alley ways and narrow streets, I have been formulating in my mind how all that I have absorbed may transpose itself into my design work.  I didn`t travel to Japan so that I could come back to Utah and design Japanese gardens specifically.  I came to be in the presence of greatness and deep beauty and to learn the designers` thought and philosophies so that I too may create more powerful landscapes.  Elements and ideas have come to me that have changed or magnified the way I view and approach the landscape for the residential setting. 

One area of my thought is that the success of the garden isn`t a one-man act.  Architecture and people/culture are two other necessary aspects of an inpactful residential space.  I am impressed by how much architecture depends on the garden/landscape and by how much the beauty of the garden relys on the design of the architecture.  They should enhance and compliment each other - many times it is because of their differences which creates such a powerful combination.  They each bring something to the moment that the other cannot, but that the other needs...like a successful human relationship.

I need to think more about the above paragraph so much more...

I don`t know.  I have been thinking... how can I put real time to what I feel in my heart and see in my mind?  Maybe I`ll get a masters in Architecture so that I can have more influence over the important connection of house and garden!  But I don`t think that`s my path at this point...eehhh....or maybe I need just the right relationship with an architect or builder.  One where we collaborate our individual responsibilites and strengths.  Create a system of synergy.  I think the results would be thrilling and important.   

So much to think about!  Can`t believe I`ll be home Friday...         

Sunday, May 23, 2010

A breakfast idea

My mind has been running a million miles a minute since breakfast.  It`s already on overload-mode from absorbing so much visual spelndor and how that will affect my work, thought, and actions as a landscape designer. 

This morning as I was eating breakfast and chatting about what-not with an OSU professor an idea came to me.  BYU needs to have an international program for the Landscape Management Program, of which I am an adjunct faculty member.  The reason why OSU comes to Kameoka each year is because Stillwater is a sister city with Kameoka - that is where their relationship started.

I needed a similar foundation as a springboard for initiating an international program for the BYU Landscape Management program.  Sister cities.....hmmmm - does Provo have a sister city?

Yes....

In 1999 officials from Nanning, China visited Utah to sign a sister-city agreement with Provo...  Mayor Guoqiang said that one of the reasons he wanted to become a sister city with Provo was because of it`s church heritage.  ‘Mormonism`, he said, `is quite close to the traditions of the Chinese.`
I couldn`t have been more thrilled when I found the above article.  The program could spend 1.5 weeks in China and then 1.5 weeks in Kyoto for a three week experience.  Students would have course requirements and would receive credit.  It`s just a birth of an idea at this point, but when I return I am going to present these thoughts to the department and see what I can do to get this program established.  The trip could occur every two years and would be for seniors and juniors.  Provo even has a `Friendship Garden` somewhere commemorating this relationship we have with China.  Awesome.

I have been noticing the similarities between Buddhism here in Japan and Mormonism...and have found many parallels and similarities.  I still have a lot to research about Buddhism...but some/many things are uncannily alike.  It will be interesting to study more about Chinese tradition and religion to find the common ground Mayor Guoquiang sees and feels.

Woohoo.  

A Japanese Bath and Misc.

The bath was drawn and waiting for me.  In Japan, the guest bathes first.

I was staying with the Matsuyama family near Kameoka for the evening - dinner, okonomiyama - a popular Japanese dish had been served, and now it was time to end the day.  I was tired and ready for some good sleep, but first, a hot bath.

Bathing in Japan is a little different than bathing in the States.  Only when you are clean can you enter the tub of hot water.  Mostly I think this is due to the fact that everyone in the family uses the same bath water.  First the guest, then the head of the household, then the mother - then oldest to youngest.  Isn`t Cameron glad we didn`t grow up in Japan!  Ha!  I really like the idea of washing before soaking.  Another way to add a moment of tranquility into the daily routine. 

Next to the bath was a sink, mirror, and a hose with a shower head.  There was a small stool to sit on while you scrub your skin and scalp.  After all the soap and shampoo suds have been rinsed off, then you move into the bath to rest, soak and relax.  It`s a great way to bathe and I plan on having a Japanese soaking tub that is open to a garden one day.

******

Today the Mastuyama family took me to Kayabuki no Sato.  A Miyama town about an hour drive into the mountains.  It`s a very small village where the people still have thatched roofs.  It was enchanting!  I have been so lucky to see such a variety of landscapes and methods of living that exists in Japan.  Soon we`ll move in to Tokyo which means I will have seen the big city to the moutain temples and everything in between!

I learned more of why the some people here were face masks: allergies/pollen is high right now, or flu season, even though flu season is really over now - or...yellow sand from China.  Ah!  The yellow sand - that must be what has been making my eyes twitch since day one.

It was really great staying with a Japanese family for a day.  They are more westernized and it was nice to have that point of view and to see another lifestyle of many people in Japan.  Sachiko, the wife, could speak english very well so I was able to ask a lot of questions about culture, history, and little odds and ends.  I learned that in Kyoto dialect, Geisha are called Geiko, and Geiko in traning is called Meiko.  Kyoto still has a Geiko district.  I also was enlightened to an amazing magazine that I will now have a subscription to.

It`s been fun to learn the differences between Buddhism and Shitoism.  Buddhism = Temple.  Shintoism = Shrines and Tori Gates.  Yesterday we went to one of each and while at the temple a monk led us in zazen.  We had to sit still while he led us in mediation.  We were all sitting on tatami mats with legs crossed, hands locked together in a certain manner, eyes closed.  He clapped two pieces of wood together twice, hit a bell four times - and that`s when it began.  During the next 15 minutes he walked around with a bamboo type stick.  If your posture is off or if you are falling asleep or aren`t concentrating you are `corrected` by the stick.  Normally they do this meditation for at least 30 minutes, I think.  It probably depends on what sect you are a part of.

Yesterday we were taught by local gardeners - we built a bamboo fence and set stepping stones.  We learned the knot they use to lash the bamboo together using a black rope made from a certain type of palm tree that comes from China.  The main posts were made from Cedar and were charred earlier to maintain their longevity and to protect the wood from the rain.  I now have 9 bundles of this rope I am bringing home with me to use when I, at some point, build a bamboo fence of my own - either for myself or for a Client.

Tomorrow is a free day and I am wandering by myself again!!  I am thrilled.

Friday, May 21, 2010

A nap at Tofuku-ji

I walk barefoot around the covered wooden porch ledges at the Tofuku-ji temple.  The worn planks are soft and warm on my feet.  Gardens surround the four sides of the temple.  It is mid-afternoon.

The front temple garden is a rock garden of large stones, with more than that of Ryoan-ji.  Concentric circle patterns have been carefully raked into the white rough sands around the various rocks giving the impression of the sea surrounding magnificent mountains - and also reminds me of rain drops.  It interests me and I sit down to be.  Noise from other visitors becomes a distraction so I leave to move to the other side of the temple in a clock-wise fashion.

The garden here is more geometric with sheared shrubs and sand creating a grid - but still, it feels very soft and stilling.  I admire it, contemplate it - but do not stop to stare or become entranced.  

The garden on the back of the temple is curious to view.  I feel comfortable here and could study the patterns created by stone and moss for hours.  But after taking several photographs, I keep moving through the covered porch.

I come to the fourth area - the fourth side of the structure.  It's so simply made - almost like it wasn't designed at all, but just became.  It has a different feel and look from the other three gardens of the temple.  It's almost peasant-like it's so simple.  The wooden floors span out into the garden on this side without any railing.  With the generous overhang of the roof high above, this space feels open and of comfort, like the garden wants to sing me a lullaby.  It invites me to sit and stay awhile.  I do so and rest against a large wooden pillar.  But sitting with legs stretched, gazing out into the garden doesn't last long.  I am soon resting with my back on the wooden porch staring up at the intricate woodwork above.  Eyes close.  I let the garden sift me to sleep.

*****

I nap randomly and in random places when I travel - or when I am out and about.  A bench, a grassy slope, a large rock.  It's something I started doing quite a while ago - and it's been a constant since then.  It actually has become a highlight and a strong memory of my travels and adventures.  When I am asleep in a space I become a part of that space - and it becomes a part of me.  It changes me.  As I lie in sub-consciousness I become aware of everything and nothing at the same time.  It's really quite remarkable and exhilarating.  A calmness overcomes me, quiets me in meditative tones.  The history and the culture that hangs in the air passes through me, leaving traces in my being.  Experiences from times past seeps up from the ground and into my body as we meld together.  I am becoming a part of the space, and it a part of me.  A bench in a Rio Palace park, a piece of driftwood on Cannon Beach, a Temple porch in Kyoto....

When I awake, I wake a new being as having passed from life to death, to life again.  But as I rise renewed, I leave with a feeling of that space and moment intertwined into my soul.  Today that happened.  Today I napped at Tofuku-ji Temple and it changed me.  It will always be a part of me.

****

We are back in the Kameoka countryside.  The frogs must be having as good a meal as we did tonight!  They are happy and loud.  A breeze is passing through this second story room.  Looking out - many of the rice fields were flood irrigated today - creating a valley of mirrors for the sky above to be reflected in.  It fills the satoyama with a soft light as the sun prepares to set.  Ah!  Maybe it's all the water that is encouraging all of the giddy frogs.

We also experienced Byodoin today - it was incredible and I was in awe!  Everything here is simply amazing and my mind is busting!  I am learning so much!  Sometimes I get teary-eyed as I see and feel what I am surrounded by and by what I am being taught just by being here.  Spaces speak - and if you let them - they will teach.  I am surprised by how I feel so at home here - I didn't expect it.  Some of the gardens seem so familiar.

Wednesday, May 19, 2010

Muryokoin Temple

The past 24 hours have been among the most unique in my entire life...

***********************************

I make my way up the street - looking for Muryokoin, the Buddhist temple I will be staying in for the night.  There`s a young man from Osaka also looking for Muryokoin...with him it is much easier to find.

Monk are waiting with smiles and bows.  We take off our shoes and leave our umbrellas - slip on slippers and enter the office area.  Here you kneel on the floor - no chairs.  The monk across the short table is also kneeling.  He takes my receipt and a younger monk shows me the shower room (common) the toilets and where I will sleep.  They have a small treat waiting for me on the table in the center of the room.  Dinner is served at 6.

5 o`clock and I step out of my room and into the hallway.  There is a monk with a meditative look standing nearby.  I wonder.  He opens a panel - lifts a mallet of some sort and hits the bell.  It vibrates the air and vibrates my center.  I go out into the garden to continue to listen and watch as vibrating tones are heard and felt over and over.

I spent the next hour resting, thinking, looking out over the garden.   6 o`clock comes and a voice calls into my room...hai.

The panels slide open and three young monks with trays of food enter.  They are always on their knees as they arrange my meal.  After it is all set up - they leave the room, bow, bend down to their knees gain, bow and slide the shoji panels shut.  I eat - it is delicious. 

When you stay in a Buddhist temple you eat as the monks do - which is vegetarian.  It was very good, however I know some of my siblings might starve here due to texture aversion.

7:30pm I lay down.  Rain is still falling as it has all day.  A little harder now.  I fall asleep.

*******

6:00am.  The bell is hit again.  Again and again.  Shortly after I hear chanting.  My room is dark. It is still raining.  The chanting lasts for an hour.  Strange notes, all in perfect unison...almost like a buzzing, but with moment of melodious tones.

Just a little after 7 I rise and dress.  Down the hall they have been in the meditation room since six.  I join them for the last few moments.   It`s very dark inside the meditation room and only lit by several candles.  Incense is strong.  Incense fill this whole mountain actually.  A Buddhist priest is leading the meditation.

Breakfast comes.  After I finish I pack up what little I have and `check out`.  They did have a toothbrush with little toothpaste thank goodness!  As I am exchanging the slippers with my shoes out on the patio/porch type area the monks are out sweeping what appears to be an already clean area.  Everything in Japan is very clean for the most part.  Very emaculate really.  We have little conversation exchange.  One asks if I have an umbrella, as it is still raining.  I say hai, I have a little one.  He leaves.  As I stand up to head out - he comes back with a nice, big, blue umbrella with some Japanese writing on it.  I try to tell him I am not coming back  - I am leaving.  `Present.`  He bows and hands me the umbrella.  I bow back....we probably bowed back and forth a couple of times....lol.  Wow!  What a gift!  I was smiling big as I walked out the gates and onto the streets.  I`ll stay very dry this morning.

Konpon Daito, Okuinoin Gobyo, Sando, Torodo, Karukayado, Kongobuji and more.  It is all amazing.  Kongobuji has the largest rock garden in Japan and is absolutely entrancing.  Not the same power as Ryoan-ji - but still very impactful and I stay here for awhile.  Koyasan has over 100 temples - one needs 2 nights here really to experience it appropriately.  Running to Stand Still  - I think you and ZPQ should come here for your 5 year...and I`ll try to give you directions to this little office where they have a laptop set up with free internet!  It`s the only one I`ve seen in Koyasan so far.

Everything is very green this time of year.  They call is `new green` and it is very very satisfying.  All of the cherry blossoms have fallen...not even a trace this time of year.  Flowering shrubs are in full bloom creating bursts of hot and soft pinks throughout the landscape.  Much azalea.  It`s kind of like our late May or early June...aside from missing the blossoms, they say May is the best time of year to be in Japan....not too hot and humid yet - but not too cold either.  It has been perfect weather.  October, early November is also an ideal time to travel here.  Fall spectrum! 

It`s time to return to Kyoto - but I have saved plenty of Koyasan to return to, which I have not seen yet.  Pictures and more Koyasan stories to come after the 28th of May.

****
Claire - hey!  So flattered you are reading my blog!  Thanks for commenting.  And thank you everyone for your comments.  Hope all is well at home.

Koyasan

It`s raining here on Mount Koya.  Just last night I decided that today I would leave the group and venture out on my own...to Koyasan. 

It was to be a day trip.  A day to clear my mind - have some peace and thinking space - and to adventure and navigate Japan solo...

I started the morning out with the group as we left Kyoto...at Osaka they went up and I stayed down...heading to Namba station.

Eventually I made my way to Namba and caught the Nainka Line...(I think that`s how it is spelled) - an 90 minute train ride into the mountains of Japan.  Amazing scenery.  I knew as I was on the train, one afternoon was not going to be sufficient.

I had only my handbag with my passport, money and an umbrella....

After the train we hopped on a cable car - then caught a bus to Koyasan.  Once on foot and once I saw what surrounded me I knew I would stay the night.  I`ll be staying in a temple - sleeping on a tatami mat surrounded by Shogi walls.  I have nothing with me for an overnight stay - but Peter Lassig told me if I ever had a chance to stay in a temple overnight - to take it.  So I am.  Somehow it seems appropriate that I have nothing with me.

I called the group and told them I would meet up with them sometime and somewhere in Kyoto tomorrow.  It:s Koyosan tonight.

The temple closes at 5.  So I need to sign out.  Everything here closes at 5.  What I have seen already has been just remarkable - breathtaking.  I`ll write more on Koyasan tomorrow night when I am back in Kameoka....

What I learned yesterday

architecture is more important than the architect.

the town is more important than the architecture.

a person is more important than a town.

i think this thinking is meant to suggest - don`t do something if it`s overall impact isn`t going to benefit mankind. 

Monday, May 17, 2010

A traveler - not a tourist.

Tonight we are in Kyoto.  Not far from Higashihongan-Ji.  I just got back from dinneď˝’: sashimi (tuna) over a bed of seaweed and rice with miso soup.  For lunch I had some maacki and nigiri (squid, yellowtail, tuna, salmon, shrimp, and two other which I didn`t recognize)....it was delicious and I feel so spoiled here!  So much great sushi and the price is cheaper than what I would pay in the states.  Sybil asked earlier just how expensive the food was - and frankly I don:t know what everyone was talking about...deathly expensive food.  In Kyoto, at least, it is very comparable to the states.  YOu can go cheap, you can go what I would consider normal, or you can go expensive.  I pay on average for a dinner - around 10 bucks, which seems pretty good to me.  Now - maybe Tokyo is more expensive.  But I just got a sundae from McDonalds (the first McD`s I`ve had because I`d rather eat somewhere else...) however, the price was just the same.  SO really I don`t know what everyone was talking about.  If anything - it seems cheaper.

About the bikes - they do lock them up, it`s just not obvious.  I guess I got a little romantic there about nobody locking their bikes and isn`t that wonderful....yeah right.  They lock their bikes, and yes - people do steal them.  EVERYONE rides bikes.  It`s great.

Today we met with the Mayor of Kameoka - it was quite the formal experience and we all exchanged gifts and such.  They even put the American flag outside of their offices adjacent theirs just for our visit.  He was very gracious. 

********

By the time we got to the hotel - my legs were busted.  My knees were begging me for a rest.  It had been a long day.  So I laid down while everyone else went out to find food.  That was fine with me.  I was ready for some solo time anyways.  After a few resting moments I wandered out.  I wasn`t hungry so I wandered the streets.  It was close to dusk...but just enough light for a few good photographs.  I took to the small streets - the side streets....the ones that only locals go down.  That`s how you experience a culture.  Get close to their homes, get close to their way of life...see how they live, where they live and who they are.  When you step into the regular, everyday life - that`s when you become a traveler...and are no longer a tourist (I never consider myself a tourist, however).    

It was so enjoyable.  Hearing the clank of dinner dishes leaving the cupboard and being placed in the table, a conversation coming from inside...a daughter calling for her father.  A young man rides by on a bike, smiling.  Three girls pass by.  A car pulls up - another one leaves.  A woman out hanging wet laundry, two men sharing conversation outside the front gate....incense fills a moment in time and the sun sets.  No longer able to take photographs, I put the camera away.  Everywhere there are signs of everyday life.

I love being a traveler.  Especially here in Kyoto.

I have been thinking more about Ryoan-ji and Kinkaku-ji.  They are very powerful gardens.  I know that Ryoan-ji is a Zen Buddhist garden...I think Kinkaku-ji is as well - it is a stroll garden, which usually means there a pond involved.  The rock groupings in Kinkaku-ji is something profound.  They were created in the 13th or 14th century, and if you listen and look - you can almost hear, see and feel the gardeners placing each rock in place so purposefully.  Rocks have spirits and rock placement is a very serious endeavor.  There is a power and spiritual intensity in the rocks.  I want to be in these places again.  I want to spend some real time there.  Just after a snowfall...during a light rainfall - a bright summer day or a cool Autumn morning.  I would love to experience these gardens through different moments in time.  Frankly I am too tired to write too much about my thoughts on these places right now.  It`s much better to talk about it over dinner or lunch - or just a chat sitting on the couch.  But I need more time here.  Yeah - I`ll be back.

About the 15 rocks in the rock garden at Ryoan-ji.  I was thinking that there is no place to sit in which you can see all 15 stones at one time (or, as they do say, if you can, you have gained enlightenment) - but the 15 are there nonetheless.  Sometimes we can`t see the whole picture in life.  In fact - I don`t think we ever do.  The Plan of the Lord is whole, is true, it`s there.  Sometimes we can see 11, 12, or 13 stones of it.  Sometimes we can see 14.  But never 15.  So we have faith - faith that because the Lord has told us there is a 15th stone, there really is and someday when we are taken up - we will see it all clearly and we will be happy we did not doubt.

Today I learned about the importance of the garden and architecture and how both are needed.  Tthey emphasize the beauty of each and stregthen each other.  The garden needs the architecture, the architecture needs the garden.  I do love architecture and admired and wondered over the varied architecture I enjoyed as I wandered the residential areas of Kyoto. 

A good handful of people were face masks here - Dr. Allen, you would totally fit in - except for your skin and hair color.  But hey - the mask may be a good enough disguise.

Sybil also asked if the people here are like Hey!  Americano!!!  No.  I think they really don`t care either way if I am here or not.  I don`t feel like a foriegner, except I can`t communicate.  But they do not react in a way that makes me feel out of place.  The young school boys have liked to shake our hands on rare occassion. 

Okay - time for a salty soak in the pleasantly deep tub.

Sunday, May 16, 2010

Ryoanji and Kinkakuji - and a garden party!!!

Up early again.  Birds.

You know - I can wake up early just fine if there is sufficient natural light to fill my room in the early morning.  I wake early with no headache.  I have always planned on creating a bedroom that morning light can easily enter when I build a house.  Then you never need an alarm clock.

Yesterday was really great.  Breakfast was the normal time - 7:30.  Breads, (creative breads), pork soup, a mango gelitan/yogurt type stuff, sausage, and oranges.  We started out a little later than the day before.  Went to a shrine to see the site of an old, but now destroyed castle - then we went to a mall type place where people could spend an hour shopping...I sat outside in the courtyard sitting and thinking during that time - then we had lunch. 

After lunch is where the day really began.  We were picked up by a tour bus that was halfway full of locals that could speak english, some better than others.  We were all supposed to sit by one of the locals to chat and converse.  It was so fun interacting with these people and I think they enjoyed it as well.  It was like a zipper being zipped up....

We first went to Ryoanji Temple.  It's a Zen Buddhist temple.  It's one of those places that you have great expectations for and you wonder if it's really going to fill them.  It just didn't meet the expectations, but it exceeded.  I was pleasantly and deeply impressed.  The most important moment for me came at the rock garden, which is the element that makes this temple so well-known.

The rock garden is made up of 15 rocks.  5 is a special number in Buddhism - and three 5's means something even more significant I believe.  The rocks were grouped in three's, two's (which created groupings of 5) and one grouping on 5.  15 total.  They were arranged just so - so that no matter where you sit around the garden, you can never see all 15.  A lesson about enlightenment:  there is always something that we can improve on, something always lacking - none, if few, will gain perfection in this life, but that we should continually strive for it/enlightenment. 

This is one of the areas where you must take off your shoes and leave the world behind.  You then pass through the hallway - and come to what looks like a covered porch.  I am sure they have a term for it, but I cannot think of ot right now.  People can sit, spanning the length of the porch.  You sit and look, you sit, and think...you sit and count the rocks.  1, 2, 3, 4....5, 6, 7, 8....9, 10...11...12...13..14......I got 14.

I could have sat there for hours.  There was something indescribable about that place.  There was a feeling and a power of connection there that I haven't felt in any of the other gardens, and in any other garden anywhere I have ever been!  Something was happening in that space.  I was talking with Mao - one of the girls here with OSU who is actually from Thailand.  We were talking about our experience with the rock garden and she said she felt it too.  I'll never forget that place.  I am going back my next visit to Japan so I can sit there for hours. 

After Ryoanji, we went to Kinkakuji.  It was beautiful!  I had seen pictures of the golden pavilion before - but it is something else in person!  The pond at this garden was my favorite I have seen thus far.  They love purple iris here - bunches of it along the shoreline.  Once the ponds at Rivendell are stable, I am going to plant deep purple iris along the waters edge.

There were a bunch of students from Tokyo touring this temple as well.  One of them asked my to help him with a school assignment as they were supposed to practice their english on the trip.  After doing so he gave me a little gift of an origami crane and a small coin with a ribbon tied to it.  If you find or are given one of these coins, it means you will return to Japan.  :)

We then said goodbye to our new bus friends.  I got the address of one so I could send her easter egg dye.  Her 6 year old sone was very curious about it - and as they don't celebrate Easter in Japan, I explained how you dye the eggs - and that I could send them some dye.  She was thrilled.  So was I.

Then we came back to the Fujiwara guesthouse - where preparations for a garden party were being made.  Japanese BBQ.  It was a blast!  All of our host families were there - as well as some other neighbors.  Lots of food.  Lots of veggies, meats (cow tongue, squid, etc), noddles....it was SO much fun and the first time we met our host family whom we will be staying with next weekend.  There's a pepper tree here whose leaves you can eat.  It creates a party in your mouth.  Ha!  During the bbq, some guy can in dressed up as a Samuri - he was pretty funny and shot confetti out of a gun.

The BBQ lasted for hours.  Hours of laughing, and eating - all while in the front garden of this traditional Japanese home.  Garden partys are the greatest.  As the evening went on and the evening  sky darkened...The moon was just a sliver as a star - venus I think, hung just above it.

When I get back - I am going to throw a garden party on L Street - get excited.

I wish I had time to tell more detail - but yesterday was a great day.

A great Sabbath day.

Saturday, May 15, 2010

Last Thursday

Last Thursday as I was wandering Kyoto solo - I went to see the Higashihongan-ji Temple.  The weather was overcast with intermittent misty rains.  I was impressed by the size of the temple - And later found out that it's the largest wooden structure in the world.  It was really impressive...the size if the columns...size if the doors...the size of the wooden floor members...all huge!  Detail in the architecture was intense.  I walked up the wooden steps - and came to a landing.  A monk walked over and in a very polite, friendly and humble manner, motioned that this was not an entrance - I went back down and around to the front of the building.  I climbed the stairs again.  We were supposed to take off our shoes.  No shoes in the temple.  I think that's the other thing the monk was motioning as he was pointing at my feet as well during his motions. 

I walked around barefoot.  The tatami mats filled the large hall, people were praying.  Walking just outside the hall, the aged wooden floor felt like worn leather beneath my feet.  It was good to walk barefoot.  One connects with the temple on a different level if one is barefoot.  Everything you feel is intensified.

Also - before one enters the temple there is a place of washing out in the large and open courtyard.  You come to the place of water - like a font - there are ladles placed on waters edge.  You dip the ladle in the water - pour the water over each hand - the water running over your hands must not be poured back into the clean water - but in the gravel or area beside the font.  After you have washed your hands then you fill the ladle once more and let the water run down to handle - to cleanse it.  Then you may enter the temple.

I then went to see the Shosei-en Garden afterwards.  Here I learned about streams and how what is underneath affects what is above.  I suppose that's another metaphor for life.  Depending on the placement and size and quantity of rocks below the surface of the water will determine how the water looks on the surface, whether serene and peaceful, rough or bubbly, or rampant and raging.  Who we really are reflects through. 

On May 15th at the Heian Shrine, I learned the importance of sunlight and preserving areas in the garden of complete, open sunlight.  I sat on a large rock, basking a bit while sketching this area so that I may remember.  One doesn't always want to rest in the cool of the shade.  Sunlight warms you and brings color.  Have both in the garden, and both in life.

At some point, I will talk about Shibusa....

5 am

The house is quite.  Everyone is sleeping.  I'm awake.

I move the sliding panel just enough to let me through, grab a laptop and head down the steep flight of stairs to another open room of tatami mats.  Here I can see out into the front garden.  Much green and three stone lanterns.  I'll be going for another morning walk.  Longer this time.

Many of the rooms are divided by sliding panel that have translucent paper or another type of translucent material between them.  It allows light to filter through and the whole house becomes one space of soft glow.  I love this.

People are starting to rouse...that's the other thing - everyone is so much connected with everyone else in the house...what one does effects the others.  At least as far as sleeping goes and waking early.  But that's a good metaphor for life I think as we tend to sometimes like to think that "my actions only effects myself sometimes, so I can do what I want...."

I am going to do some reading now.  Reading then walking.

***

Dear Anonymous - I guess you wish to remain anonymous?  I really don't know who you are, ...I have ideas - but I am probably wrong... 

More Kyoto

One always removes your shoes when you enter the house.  Slippers are waiting.  But when you enter a room of tatami mat, or where you dine - you slip off your slippers.  Wear socks.

My morning walk in the countryside was surreal.  Getting up early is underrated.  I think I'll sleep on the floor when I get back home.

Time to take a shower.  Here, it's a traditional shower room/steam room.  Pretty exciting.  Pretty exciting.

******

Back from a long day.  We saw Heian Shrine, Murian and Ginkakuji Temple.  Ginkakuji was my favorite.  After seeing Ginkakuji we walked along the Philosophers path...while walking back gongs sounded repeatedly from a nearby shrine or temple at wide intervals.  It was so appropriate and made the moment so fulfilling and each gong hung in the air.  Tomorrow we see Ryoanji (YES!) and Kinkakuji Temple. 

Have I mentioned how everyone rides bikes with baskets on the front?  All ages too.  What's even better is that I haven't seen a bike locked up yet!  I think that's pretty great - cause you would never see that in the States.  They are everywhere - mopeds and small street bikes too.  I could live here for a while and be very happy doing so.

Lots of suits.  Lots of suits.  And the streets are narrow.  I am always thinking it's a one way - and then here comes a car from the other direction.  Some how we pass by without incident.  Here you drive on the other side of the street.  Nice.

I am quite tired and will hopefully sleep well on the tatami mats tonight. 

I had so much to say but now that I have a chance at the computer - I'm stuck.

Lots of green.  There is a lot of green.  The architecture of the houses - I like.  The colors are very earthen and grounded.  It's a nice combination with the green world around them.  I like their architecture here.

There are aspects of Japanese lifestyle, culture and architecture that I would like to incorporate into my life when I get back to the states.  I am going to make a list of how I would like my house, how I would like to interact with those around me, and how I would like to get around.  The same respect that the people how to gardens and nature, is the same respect they show to their neighbors.  It's enjoyable watching people interact with one another.  No crass or crudeness here.  Sometimes I think America needs some propriety lessons, I mean seriously people.  America is so obsessed with media, shock value, pushing the line, the material lifestyle and things that just don't create a substantial life...

Our dinner was delicious.  A salad of lettuce greens, avocado, tofu and little crispy fish whose eyeballs you could still see.  Yum.  He's watching me..... we also had a pasta dish with bacon, broccoli, and something else.  It was so good.  It's rather neat how they have our breakfast and dinner set up.  As we are staying in a smaller village out in the country, the locals come into the house and cook for us.  We get real, home cooked, authentic Japanese food.  Tonight it was cooked by three young men.  It's was fun watching them whip up a Japanese cuisine.  It's great to interact with the locals as well and Saturday night I will be staying in the home of a family here.  Just me and them.  I am looking forward to it!  During the day we are in Kyoto and so we eat lunch in a restaurant.  Hopefully we'll get some sushi/sashimi soon. 

The group is real great.  11 of us - two professors, two female students, 5 male students and one father of one of the students - and me!  We all get along great and have a wonderful time navigating Kyoto together.  We also have some locals and an American that's living here helping us get around. 

I am excited to come back to Kyoto and to Japan!  I am already planning on it.  There are SO MANY temples and gardens to see.  I just can't belivee it.  We will only scratch the surface on this trip.  But this time here will give me a good foundation for how to get around and how the system works, etc - and create some great relationships for future visits (this fall maybe, if I have a real good season - or fall 2011).  But I would really, really like to come back with a boyfriend or my husband.  That's how I would prefer my international travels anyways - or any travels.  I want to share all of this I am experiencing with someone.  Someone other than random people, even though I love meeting new people.  But I'll keep going solo as long as needs be - which will hopefully not be that much longer, cause sharing life on a real and permanent level with someone sounds nice for a change.

****

Frogs are out in the rice fields.  I think that's what I am hearing...lots of them.  I love it. 

I love being here in Japan.  I love feeling the culture here.  I have waited and worked so hard for this.  Sometimes I still can't believe I am here, and I want to thank everyone who helped my get here.  Esp. my fam.

Anonymous - thanks for your comment on my last post.  I would really like to know who I am thanking however. 

Sybil - I don't know the cost of the food.  I just buy and eat.  I'll pay more attention.  But I think a regular McDonalds meal is 9 bucks - but that's McD's so....

Love you all - love all around...love and sushi.  Mom - I am taking you out to dinner when I get back if I come back....lol. 

Friday, May 14, 2010

Kameoka

5:15  am and I am very much awake.  Tatami mats - I didn't think they would let me sleep in.  Maybe that's why the Japanese are so productive and known for their insane work hours.  They don't sleep in.

We are staying out in the country - in a very traditional Japanese house that is over 200 years old....could have been built in the 1700's.

I look out the window and see fields annd mountain and other traditional houses.

The toilet is still heated.  :)

Last night I was the only one here out of the group for a while so I got to help three local ladies in  the kitchen.  They prepared chicken and beef curry - and another side dish with bamboo, chicken, peas, etc.  It was fun and we had some good laughs at our lack of communication. 

I finally met Professor Hsu, he's awesome.  Three girls - the rest are guys.  That makes up the group.

There's a lot I would like to say.  BUt when I sit down to type my time is very limited - no time for thought or editing. 

People call me Lorien san.

I really like it herre.  It's going to be a good day - and we are going to see one of my favorite temples/garden.

Thursday, May 13, 2010

Kyoto

First morning in Kyoto.  About to head out to find out what's for breakfast.  Yesterday I had some rice mush stuff with shrimp for breakfast.  Many of my siblings wouldn't survive here.  I love it.

Arriving to Kyoto from Tokyo wasn't too bad.  The train wasn't crowded and there were a few people here and there that pointed me in the right direction.  Narita Express from Narita Station - then one stop after Tokyo Station get off - move to new area of train station and catch the 299 to Kyoto.  Two trains - two passes plus a Suica pass...and I arrived just fine!  And very hungry and incredibly tired.

My hotel is right across from Kyoto station, so arriving at the train station at 10pm wasn't so bad as all I had to do was cross the street to reach my bed...and heated toilet.  Yes - the toilet is heated.  I think potty training would become a whole other story for toddlers if the this were the regular case in the States.  We all should have heated toilets.

Some other neat items about this Hotel - there are slippers in the room with a robe - all Japanese style of course.  The tub is very deep, which was divine.  I already mentioned the heated toilet.  Very simple bedding, no flat sheet.  VERY firm mattress.  They give you a packet when you arrive with body scrub, moisture fase mask, a hair tie, a loofah....that is what's in the ladies bag anyways.  They make you feel really great about being really tired as you look forward to some salt scrub and face mask...

Everything seems a bit smaller here from general housing I have seen to cars to tubs....

After settling in I headed out just after 11 to find food.  Plenty of nearby places to grab a bite to eat.  My dish had a raw egg right in the middle of it. 

Although My Japanese is really nothing worth noting, I have found that I have definitely switched to foreign language mode because I keep thinking and wanting to respond to everyone in Portuguese and I keep spelling simple words wrong - like hear for here - their for there...etc.  The Rosetta Stone program did a better job than I realize.  It's too bad the past three weeks I couldn't focus on it because of work deadlines.  It's fun hearing people talk and recognizing words or phrases - or recognizing the Hiragana and Katakana in the streets.  Although I still can't read it!  Kip - you would absolutely love it here....I hope you and ZPQ make it here soon.  Save your pennies - it's expensive.

The people here are so gracious, kind, happy and really beautiful. 

Today I'll go visit some nearby temples and gardens on my own.  Sometime this afternoon I'll catch a local train to...somewhere.  I have it written down.  It's not too far a way at all.  Later tonight I'll meet up with Professor Hsu and his group.  I don't know what my internet access will be after this.  I brought my phone with me but have yet to find a place with free WiFi....

Well - I had better find some food out there...take advantage of every minute I have here.  They allow smoking in the hotel lobby, etc.  Not very pleasant.

Wednesday, May 12, 2010

Boarding.....sionara.
I still can't believe I am going to Japan! Haven't even had time to think about it....
LAX: flight from SLC was uneventful. Exactly what one wants. The last three weeks have been anything but that. Long days. Long nights. Little sleep. Aaacckk.

Went to bed at 3:30am. Woke up an hour late. Suitcase too small. Running around in bathrobe with wet hair outside my chez...checking out the cellar for another luggage option. Negtive.
Stuff my stuff in a bag ad too small suitcase. Gloria and I drive to wal mart as it's the only place open with luggage. Buy luggage. While giving driving directions I am in the back re-packing. Make my flight. Sleep. Sushi for lunch.
Meet American in line at LAX. He has a bouquet of chocolate roses with a few sprigs of pussywillow. Going to Osaka to try to convince his fiancĂ© to leave her mom and come back with him. How sweet. He gives me Japan advice. Nice. Switched my middle seat to an aisle seat. Nice. Surrounded by a culture I have little experience with. We're all headed to Japan. It's going to be a different experience.