Wednesday, May 19, 2010

What I learned yesterday

architecture is more important than the architect.

the town is more important than the architecture.

a person is more important than a town.

i think this thinking is meant to suggest - don`t do something if it`s overall impact isn`t going to benefit mankind. 

Monday, May 17, 2010

A traveler - not a tourist.

Tonight we are in Kyoto.  Not far from Higashihongan-Ji.  I just got back from dinner: sashimi (tuna) over a bed of seaweed and rice with miso soup.  For lunch I had some maacki and nigiri (squid, yellowtail, tuna, salmon, shrimp, and two other which I didn`t recognize)....it was delicious and I feel so spoiled here!  So much great sushi and the price is cheaper than what I would pay in the states.  Sybil asked earlier just how expensive the food was - and frankly I don:t know what everyone was talking about...deathly expensive food.  In Kyoto, at least, it is very comparable to the states.  YOu can go cheap, you can go what I would consider normal, or you can go expensive.  I pay on average for a dinner - around 10 bucks, which seems pretty good to me.  Now - maybe Tokyo is more expensive.  But I just got a sundae from McDonalds (the first McD`s I`ve had because I`d rather eat somewhere else...) however, the price was just the same.  SO really I don`t know what everyone was talking about.  If anything - it seems cheaper.

About the bikes - they do lock them up, it`s just not obvious.  I guess I got a little romantic there about nobody locking their bikes and isn`t that wonderful....yeah right.  They lock their bikes, and yes - people do steal them.  EVERYONE rides bikes.  It`s great.

Today we met with the Mayor of Kameoka - it was quite the formal experience and we all exchanged gifts and such.  They even put the American flag outside of their offices adjacent theirs just for our visit.  He was very gracious. 

********

By the time we got to the hotel - my legs were busted.  My knees were begging me for a rest.  It had been a long day.  So I laid down while everyone else went out to find food.  That was fine with me.  I was ready for some solo time anyways.  After a few resting moments I wandered out.  I wasn`t hungry so I wandered the streets.  It was close to dusk...but just enough light for a few good photographs.  I took to the small streets - the side streets....the ones that only locals go down.  That`s how you experience a culture.  Get close to their homes, get close to their way of life...see how they live, where they live and who they are.  When you step into the regular, everyday life - that`s when you become a traveler...and are no longer a tourist (I never consider myself a tourist, however).    

It was so enjoyable.  Hearing the clank of dinner dishes leaving the cupboard and being placed in the table, a conversation coming from inside...a daughter calling for her father.  A young man rides by on a bike, smiling.  Three girls pass by.  A car pulls up - another one leaves.  A woman out hanging wet laundry, two men sharing conversation outside the front gate....incense fills a moment in time and the sun sets.  No longer able to take photographs, I put the camera away.  Everywhere there are signs of everyday life.

I love being a traveler.  Especially here in Kyoto.

I have been thinking more about Ryoan-ji and Kinkaku-ji.  They are very powerful gardens.  I know that Ryoan-ji is a Zen Buddhist garden...I think Kinkaku-ji is as well - it is a stroll garden, which usually means there a pond involved.  The rock groupings in Kinkaku-ji is something profound.  They were created in the 13th or 14th century, and if you listen and look - you can almost hear, see and feel the gardeners placing each rock in place so purposefully.  Rocks have spirits and rock placement is a very serious endeavor.  There is a power and spiritual intensity in the rocks.  I want to be in these places again.  I want to spend some real time there.  Just after a snowfall...during a light rainfall - a bright summer day or a cool Autumn morning.  I would love to experience these gardens through different moments in time.  Frankly I am too tired to write too much about my thoughts on these places right now.  It`s much better to talk about it over dinner or lunch - or just a chat sitting on the couch.  But I need more time here.  Yeah - I`ll be back.

About the 15 rocks in the rock garden at Ryoan-ji.  I was thinking that there is no place to sit in which you can see all 15 stones at one time (or, as they do say, if you can, you have gained enlightenment) - but the 15 are there nonetheless.  Sometimes we can`t see the whole picture in life.  In fact - I don`t think we ever do.  The Plan of the Lord is whole, is true, it`s there.  Sometimes we can see 11, 12, or 13 stones of it.  Sometimes we can see 14.  But never 15.  So we have faith - faith that because the Lord has told us there is a 15th stone, there really is and someday when we are taken up - we will see it all clearly and we will be happy we did not doubt.

Today I learned about the importance of the garden and architecture and how both are needed.  Tthey emphasize the beauty of each and stregthen each other.  The garden needs the architecture, the architecture needs the garden.  I do love architecture and admired and wondered over the varied architecture I enjoyed as I wandered the residential areas of Kyoto. 

A good handful of people were face masks here - Dr. Allen, you would totally fit in - except for your skin and hair color.  But hey - the mask may be a good enough disguise.

Sybil also asked if the people here are like Hey!  Americano!!!  No.  I think they really don`t care either way if I am here or not.  I don`t feel like a foriegner, except I can`t communicate.  But they do not react in a way that makes me feel out of place.  The young school boys have liked to shake our hands on rare occassion. 

Okay - time for a salty soak in the pleasantly deep tub.

Sunday, May 16, 2010

Ryoanji and Kinkakuji - and a garden party!!!

Up early again.  Birds.

You know - I can wake up early just fine if there is sufficient natural light to fill my room in the early morning.  I wake early with no headache.  I have always planned on creating a bedroom that morning light can easily enter when I build a house.  Then you never need an alarm clock.

Yesterday was really great.  Breakfast was the normal time - 7:30.  Breads, (creative breads), pork soup, a mango gelitan/yogurt type stuff, sausage, and oranges.  We started out a little later than the day before.  Went to a shrine to see the site of an old, but now destroyed castle - then we went to a mall type place where people could spend an hour shopping...I sat outside in the courtyard sitting and thinking during that time - then we had lunch. 

After lunch is where the day really began.  We were picked up by a tour bus that was halfway full of locals that could speak english, some better than others.  We were all supposed to sit by one of the locals to chat and converse.  It was so fun interacting with these people and I think they enjoyed it as well.  It was like a zipper being zipped up....

We first went to Ryoanji Temple.  It's a Zen Buddhist temple.  It's one of those places that you have great expectations for and you wonder if it's really going to fill them.  It just didn't meet the expectations, but it exceeded.  I was pleasantly and deeply impressed.  The most important moment for me came at the rock garden, which is the element that makes this temple so well-known.

The rock garden is made up of 15 rocks.  5 is a special number in Buddhism - and three 5's means something even more significant I believe.  The rocks were grouped in three's, two's (which created groupings of 5) and one grouping on 5.  15 total.  They were arranged just so - so that no matter where you sit around the garden, you can never see all 15.  A lesson about enlightenment:  there is always something that we can improve on, something always lacking - none, if few, will gain perfection in this life, but that we should continually strive for it/enlightenment. 

This is one of the areas where you must take off your shoes and leave the world behind.  You then pass through the hallway - and come to what looks like a covered porch.  I am sure they have a term for it, but I cannot think of ot right now.  People can sit, spanning the length of the porch.  You sit and look, you sit, and think...you sit and count the rocks.  1, 2, 3, 4....5, 6, 7, 8....9, 10...11...12...13..14......I got 14.

I could have sat there for hours.  There was something indescribable about that place.  There was a feeling and a power of connection there that I haven't felt in any of the other gardens, and in any other garden anywhere I have ever been!  Something was happening in that space.  I was talking with Mao - one of the girls here with OSU who is actually from Thailand.  We were talking about our experience with the rock garden and she said she felt it too.  I'll never forget that place.  I am going back my next visit to Japan so I can sit there for hours. 

After Ryoanji, we went to Kinkakuji.  It was beautiful!  I had seen pictures of the golden pavilion before - but it is something else in person!  The pond at this garden was my favorite I have seen thus far.  They love purple iris here - bunches of it along the shoreline.  Once the ponds at Rivendell are stable, I am going to plant deep purple iris along the waters edge.

There were a bunch of students from Tokyo touring this temple as well.  One of them asked my to help him with a school assignment as they were supposed to practice their english on the trip.  After doing so he gave me a little gift of an origami crane and a small coin with a ribbon tied to it.  If you find or are given one of these coins, it means you will return to Japan.  :)

We then said goodbye to our new bus friends.  I got the address of one so I could send her easter egg dye.  Her 6 year old sone was very curious about it - and as they don't celebrate Easter in Japan, I explained how you dye the eggs - and that I could send them some dye.  She was thrilled.  So was I.

Then we came back to the Fujiwara guesthouse - where preparations for a garden party were being made.  Japanese BBQ.  It was a blast!  All of our host families were there - as well as some other neighbors.  Lots of food.  Lots of veggies, meats (cow tongue, squid, etc), noddles....it was SO much fun and the first time we met our host family whom we will be staying with next weekend.  There's a pepper tree here whose leaves you can eat.  It creates a party in your mouth.  Ha!  During the bbq, some guy can in dressed up as a Samuri - he was pretty funny and shot confetti out of a gun.

The BBQ lasted for hours.  Hours of laughing, and eating - all while in the front garden of this traditional Japanese home.  Garden partys are the greatest.  As the evening went on and the evening  sky darkened...The moon was just a sliver as a star - venus I think, hung just above it.

When I get back - I am going to throw a garden party on L Street - get excited.

I wish I had time to tell more detail - but yesterday was a great day.

A great Sabbath day.

Saturday, May 15, 2010

Last Thursday

Last Thursday as I was wandering Kyoto solo - I went to see the Higashihongan-ji Temple.  The weather was overcast with intermittent misty rains.  I was impressed by the size of the temple - And later found out that it's the largest wooden structure in the world.  It was really impressive...the size if the columns...size if the doors...the size of the wooden floor members...all huge!  Detail in the architecture was intense.  I walked up the wooden steps - and came to a landing.  A monk walked over and in a very polite, friendly and humble manner, motioned that this was not an entrance - I went back down and around to the front of the building.  I climbed the stairs again.  We were supposed to take off our shoes.  No shoes in the temple.  I think that's the other thing the monk was motioning as he was pointing at my feet as well during his motions. 

I walked around barefoot.  The tatami mats filled the large hall, people were praying.  Walking just outside the hall, the aged wooden floor felt like worn leather beneath my feet.  It was good to walk barefoot.  One connects with the temple on a different level if one is barefoot.  Everything you feel is intensified.

Also - before one enters the temple there is a place of washing out in the large and open courtyard.  You come to the place of water - like a font - there are ladles placed on waters edge.  You dip the ladle in the water - pour the water over each hand - the water running over your hands must not be poured back into the clean water - but in the gravel or area beside the font.  After you have washed your hands then you fill the ladle once more and let the water run down to handle - to cleanse it.  Then you may enter the temple.

I then went to see the Shosei-en Garden afterwards.  Here I learned about streams and how what is underneath affects what is above.  I suppose that's another metaphor for life.  Depending on the placement and size and quantity of rocks below the surface of the water will determine how the water looks on the surface, whether serene and peaceful, rough or bubbly, or rampant and raging.  Who we really are reflects through. 

On May 15th at the Heian Shrine, I learned the importance of sunlight and preserving areas in the garden of complete, open sunlight.  I sat on a large rock, basking a bit while sketching this area so that I may remember.  One doesn't always want to rest in the cool of the shade.  Sunlight warms you and brings color.  Have both in the garden, and both in life.

At some point, I will talk about Shibusa....

5 am

The house is quite.  Everyone is sleeping.  I'm awake.

I move the sliding panel just enough to let me through, grab a laptop and head down the steep flight of stairs to another open room of tatami mats.  Here I can see out into the front garden.  Much green and three stone lanterns.  I'll be going for another morning walk.  Longer this time.

Many of the rooms are divided by sliding panel that have translucent paper or another type of translucent material between them.  It allows light to filter through and the whole house becomes one space of soft glow.  I love this.

People are starting to rouse...that's the other thing - everyone is so much connected with everyone else in the house...what one does effects the others.  At least as far as sleeping goes and waking early.  But that's a good metaphor for life I think as we tend to sometimes like to think that "my actions only effects myself sometimes, so I can do what I want...."

I am going to do some reading now.  Reading then walking.

***

Dear Anonymous - I guess you wish to remain anonymous?  I really don't know who you are, ...I have ideas - but I am probably wrong... 

More Kyoto

One always removes your shoes when you enter the house.  Slippers are waiting.  But when you enter a room of tatami mat, or where you dine - you slip off your slippers.  Wear socks.

My morning walk in the countryside was surreal.  Getting up early is underrated.  I think I'll sleep on the floor when I get back home.

Time to take a shower.  Here, it's a traditional shower room/steam room.  Pretty exciting.  Pretty exciting.

******

Back from a long day.  We saw Heian Shrine, Murian and Ginkakuji Temple.  Ginkakuji was my favorite.  After seeing Ginkakuji we walked along the Philosophers path...while walking back gongs sounded repeatedly from a nearby shrine or temple at wide intervals.  It was so appropriate and made the moment so fulfilling and each gong hung in the air.  Tomorrow we see Ryoanji (YES!) and Kinkakuji Temple. 

Have I mentioned how everyone rides bikes with baskets on the front?  All ages too.  What's even better is that I haven't seen a bike locked up yet!  I think that's pretty great - cause you would never see that in the States.  They are everywhere - mopeds and small street bikes too.  I could live here for a while and be very happy doing so.

Lots of suits.  Lots of suits.  And the streets are narrow.  I am always thinking it's a one way - and then here comes a car from the other direction.  Some how we pass by without incident.  Here you drive on the other side of the street.  Nice.

I am quite tired and will hopefully sleep well on the tatami mats tonight. 

I had so much to say but now that I have a chance at the computer - I'm stuck.

Lots of green.  There is a lot of green.  The architecture of the houses - I like.  The colors are very earthen and grounded.  It's a nice combination with the green world around them.  I like their architecture here.

There are aspects of Japanese lifestyle, culture and architecture that I would like to incorporate into my life when I get back to the states.  I am going to make a list of how I would like my house, how I would like to interact with those around me, and how I would like to get around.  The same respect that the people how to gardens and nature, is the same respect they show to their neighbors.  It's enjoyable watching people interact with one another.  No crass or crudeness here.  Sometimes I think America needs some propriety lessons, I mean seriously people.  America is so obsessed with media, shock value, pushing the line, the material lifestyle and things that just don't create a substantial life...

Our dinner was delicious.  A salad of lettuce greens, avocado, tofu and little crispy fish whose eyeballs you could still see.  Yum.  He's watching me..... we also had a pasta dish with bacon, broccoli, and something else.  It was so good.  It's rather neat how they have our breakfast and dinner set up.  As we are staying in a smaller village out in the country, the locals come into the house and cook for us.  We get real, home cooked, authentic Japanese food.  Tonight it was cooked by three young men.  It's was fun watching them whip up a Japanese cuisine.  It's great to interact with the locals as well and Saturday night I will be staying in the home of a family here.  Just me and them.  I am looking forward to it!  During the day we are in Kyoto and so we eat lunch in a restaurant.  Hopefully we'll get some sushi/sashimi soon. 

The group is real great.  11 of us - two professors, two female students, 5 male students and one father of one of the students - and me!  We all get along great and have a wonderful time navigating Kyoto together.  We also have some locals and an American that's living here helping us get around. 

I am excited to come back to Kyoto and to Japan!  I am already planning on it.  There are SO MANY temples and gardens to see.  I just can't belivee it.  We will only scratch the surface on this trip.  But this time here will give me a good foundation for how to get around and how the system works, etc - and create some great relationships for future visits (this fall maybe, if I have a real good season - or fall 2011).  But I would really, really like to come back with a boyfriend or my husband.  That's how I would prefer my international travels anyways - or any travels.  I want to share all of this I am experiencing with someone.  Someone other than random people, even though I love meeting new people.  But I'll keep going solo as long as needs be - which will hopefully not be that much longer, cause sharing life on a real and permanent level with someone sounds nice for a change.

****

Frogs are out in the rice fields.  I think that's what I am hearing...lots of them.  I love it. 

I love being here in Japan.  I love feeling the culture here.  I have waited and worked so hard for this.  Sometimes I still can't believe I am here, and I want to thank everyone who helped my get here.  Esp. my fam.

Anonymous - thanks for your comment on my last post.  I would really like to know who I am thanking however. 

Sybil - I don't know the cost of the food.  I just buy and eat.  I'll pay more attention.  But I think a regular McDonalds meal is 9 bucks - but that's McD's so....

Love you all - love all around...love and sushi.  Mom - I am taking you out to dinner when I get back if I come back....lol. 

Friday, May 14, 2010

Kameoka

5:15  am and I am very much awake.  Tatami mats - I didn't think they would let me sleep in.  Maybe that's why the Japanese are so productive and known for their insane work hours.  They don't sleep in.

We are staying out in the country - in a very traditional Japanese house that is over 200 years old....could have been built in the 1700's.

I look out the window and see fields annd mountain and other traditional houses.

The toilet is still heated.  :)

Last night I was the only one here out of the group for a while so I got to help three local ladies in  the kitchen.  They prepared chicken and beef curry - and another side dish with bamboo, chicken, peas, etc.  It was fun and we had some good laughs at our lack of communication. 

I finally met Professor Hsu, he's awesome.  Three girls - the rest are guys.  That makes up the group.

There's a lot I would like to say.  BUt when I sit down to type my time is very limited - no time for thought or editing. 

People call me Lorien san.

I really like it herre.  It's going to be a good day - and we are going to see one of my favorite temples/garden.

Thursday, May 13, 2010

Kyoto

First morning in Kyoto.  About to head out to find out what's for breakfast.  Yesterday I had some rice mush stuff with shrimp for breakfast.  Many of my siblings wouldn't survive here.  I love it.

Arriving to Kyoto from Tokyo wasn't too bad.  The train wasn't crowded and there were a few people here and there that pointed me in the right direction.  Narita Express from Narita Station - then one stop after Tokyo Station get off - move to new area of train station and catch the 299 to Kyoto.  Two trains - two passes plus a Suica pass...and I arrived just fine!  And very hungry and incredibly tired.

My hotel is right across from Kyoto station, so arriving at the train station at 10pm wasn't so bad as all I had to do was cross the street to reach my bed...and heated toilet.  Yes - the toilet is heated.  I think potty training would become a whole other story for toddlers if the this were the regular case in the States.  We all should have heated toilets.

Some other neat items about this Hotel - there are slippers in the room with a robe - all Japanese style of course.  The tub is very deep, which was divine.  I already mentioned the heated toilet.  Very simple bedding, no flat sheet.  VERY firm mattress.  They give you a packet when you arrive with body scrub, moisture fase mask, a hair tie, a loofah....that is what's in the ladies bag anyways.  They make you feel really great about being really tired as you look forward to some salt scrub and face mask...

Everything seems a bit smaller here from general housing I have seen to cars to tubs....

After settling in I headed out just after 11 to find food.  Plenty of nearby places to grab a bite to eat.  My dish had a raw egg right in the middle of it. 

Although My Japanese is really nothing worth noting, I have found that I have definitely switched to foreign language mode because I keep thinking and wanting to respond to everyone in Portuguese and I keep spelling simple words wrong - like hear for here - their for there...etc.  The Rosetta Stone program did a better job than I realize.  It's too bad the past three weeks I couldn't focus on it because of work deadlines.  It's fun hearing people talk and recognizing words or phrases - or recognizing the Hiragana and Katakana in the streets.  Although I still can't read it!  Kip - you would absolutely love it here....I hope you and ZPQ make it here soon.  Save your pennies - it's expensive.

The people here are so gracious, kind, happy and really beautiful. 

Today I'll go visit some nearby temples and gardens on my own.  Sometime this afternoon I'll catch a local train to...somewhere.  I have it written down.  It's not too far a way at all.  Later tonight I'll meet up with Professor Hsu and his group.  I don't know what my internet access will be after this.  I brought my phone with me but have yet to find a place with free WiFi....

Well - I had better find some food out there...take advantage of every minute I have here.  They allow smoking in the hotel lobby, etc.  Not very pleasant.

Wednesday, May 12, 2010

Boarding.....sionara.
I still can't believe I am going to Japan! Haven't even had time to think about it....
LAX: flight from SLC was uneventful. Exactly what one wants. The last three weeks have been anything but that. Long days. Long nights. Little sleep. Aaacckk.

Went to bed at 3:30am. Woke up an hour late. Suitcase too small. Running around in bathrobe with wet hair outside my chez...checking out the cellar for another luggage option. Negtive.
Stuff my stuff in a bag ad too small suitcase. Gloria and I drive to wal mart as it's the only place open with luggage. Buy luggage. While giving driving directions I am in the back re-packing. Make my flight. Sleep. Sushi for lunch.
Meet American in line at LAX. He has a bouquet of chocolate roses with a few sprigs of pussywillow. Going to Osaka to try to convince his fiancé to leave her mom and come back with him. How sweet. He gives me Japan advice. Nice. Switched my middle seat to an aisle seat. Nice. Surrounded by a culture I have little experience with. We're all headed to Japan. It's going to be a different experience.